HVAC, Plumbing & Electrical in Hood River, OR

Furnaces and heat pumps both work by heating air and distributing it throughout the home via air ducts. But while they both deliver heated air through a ductwork system, there are significant differences. Understanding their differences before choosing to install a heat pump or furnace is key to saving money in the long term. Determining whether a heat pump or furnace is best for your home or business will depend on several factors, including:

One glaring difference between heat pumps and furnaces is their energy source. Simply put, heat pumps use electricity, while furnaces burn fuel and gas to generate warm air. Some homes and neighborhoods are not equipped to use natural gas, so that may play a role in whether or not your home can be outfitted with a furnace.

Natural gas and fuels such as propane or pellet fuel are much cheaper than electricity. But as we mentioned above, some areas and municipalities don’t have access to natural gas. If you are fortunate enough to be able to safely access a natural gas line in your area or can buy inexpensive fuel, a furnace may be the best choice to affordably heat your home.

Since electricity is typically more expensive than natural gas, heat pumps are a more popular choice in parts of the county that have moderate climates. Heat pumps tend to struggle when temperatures dip below 30 degrees. The lower the outside temperatures go, the more energy a heat pump has to use to adequately heat the indoor air, which drives up your utility bill.

Some families that live in colder climates may choose to use a heat pump, but they back it up with a secondary heating system that takes over when and if the temperatures get too cold for a heat pump to operate at peak performance. Homeowners that live in warmer climates don’t need to continually run the heat throughout the winter months as it isn’t needed to comfortably sustain indoor temperatures, so a heat pump is a more affordable choice for their needs.

Indoor air quality is another factor to consider. Furnaces dish out drier air than that of what a heat pump produces. The air generated by a heat pump is less harsh than what you would find with an old-school gas furnace. Although both furnaces and heat pumps work to heat your home, a heat pump offers more natural humidity which helps keep your skin moisturized and doesn’t put a strain on sensitive respiratory systems.

Gas furnaces typically last longer than heat pumps, with a lifespan of around 20 years if they are properly maintained and serviced. While heat pumps, just like an HVAC or air conditioning system, will last about 15 years with proper maintenance. Another benefit of a furnace is that you may only use them for a few months out of the year, which will require less routine maintenance, meaning fewer repairs overall.

A heat pump can slow down, provide decreased temperature control, or become less efficient for many reasons. A faulty part is often the cause. However, every repair has a different set of circumstances. Your local heat pump repair contractor calculates the cost of service based on the following factors:

• Type of Heat Pump
• Cost vs. Heat Pump Part Needed
• Other Heat Pump Repair Cost Variables
• Cost of Heat Pump Repair vs. Replacement
• Can I Save Money on Heat Pump Repair?

Some heat pumps have a more conventional design, while others employ newer technologies. Here are the most common types and their typical repair costs:

• Traditional Air Source Heat Pumps ($200 to $1,600): Air source units are the most common heat pumps installed in U.S. homes. They are best suited for locations where temperature extremes are rare. A backup heat source is required in colder climates.
• Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pumps ($100 to $1,500): These consist of outdoor condenser/compressor units and indoor air handlers. Installing them costs more than air-source units but avoids the cost of installing ductwork.
• Geothermal Heat Pumps ($200 to $2,000): Installing geothermal systems involves placing underground pipework, which is expensive, but the system can last 20+ years. Despite their many advantages, geothermal heat pumps are costly to fix due to access challenges.
• Water Source Heat Pumps ($200 to $1,800): Water source systems extract and release heat from pipes placed in a lake, pond, or well. Repair costs vary based on the nature and accessibility of parts, while installation costs are higher than those of other heat pump types.

Repairing a heat pump often requires replacing one or more parts. Generally, the more components that need to be replaced, the higher the heat pump repair cost. Expenses vary depending on the type of part, the brand, and the project’s complexity.

The cost of repairs can also be affected by the type of problem. For example, if the heat pump won’t turn on, a thermostat, breaker, or fan switch issue may need to be resolved. Repairs can cost $150 to $400, depending on how many components are needed. Fixing a heat pump that won’t defrost can cost under $100 or as much as $650; the causes range from a defective timer to a damaged reversing valve.

Here’s a look at the costs of some other common heat pump replacement parts:

• Thermostat: A thermostat repair averages $100 to $300. Unless properly setting the thermostat resolves the issue, it may have a wiring or mechanical issue. Wiring repairs can cost up to $200 while a new thermostat can cost $110 to $500 to install depending on the type you choose.
• Obstructions or Blockages: Clearing a blockage or obstruction on the exterior of the unit is relatively affordable at an average cost of $75 to $200.
• Capacitor: Replacing a faulty capacitor is simple but can resolve various performance issues. A new part costs around $150 to $250.
• Line Drier: This part helps clean and remove moisture from the refrigerant. If it fails, it costs $150 to $300 to replace.
• Refrigerant: Your heat pump system relies on refrigerant to absorb, transport, and release heat. Recharging the refrigerant can cost $100 to $350, plus the expense of repairing leaky coils.
• Condenser Coil: A damaged condenser coil can cost $650 to $1,500 to replace. Otherwise, the refrigerant will continue to leak, causing performance issues and additional system damage.
• Condenser Fan Motor: The motor keeps the fan moving at the appropriate speed to ensure proper airflow. If it breaks, you’ll spend from $250 to $650 to replace it.
• Condenser Fan Blade: A broken fan blade can restrict airflow and lead to more damage. Replacing it costs $150 to $400 but immediately restores performance.
• Defrost Control Board: Your heat pump’s defrost system prevents damage if ice forms inside it. If the defrost controller fails, it costs $200 to $650 to replace.
• Compressor: Compressor replacement is perhaps the most expensive heat pump repair. It can cost up to $3,500 and may justify replacing the entire system.
• Ductwork Repairs: A ducted heat pump, reduced airflow, strange noises, condensation caused by air leaks, poor connections, or improperly sized ducts can affect heating and cooling performance. Ductwork repairs can range from a couple of hundred dollars to as much as $2,000.

How expensive heat pump repair is can depend on a range of factors other than the type of unit and parts needed. Costs can be impacted by the following:

• Labor: An HVAC contractor typically charges anywhere from $50 to $150 per hour to service a heat pump. A minimum trip fee, if the company charges one, may equal an hour or two of labor. For complex jobs, labor costs can add up to $1,500 or more.
• Unit Size: Larger, more complex heat pump systems cost more to fix. Their parts also tend to be more expensive.
• System Brand: The higher the quality of the brand, the more expensive parts are to produce and replace.
• Unit Location: Fixing a heat pump unit installed in a utility closet is easier and cheaper to repair than one in a hard-to-access location such as a crawl space.
• Season: A heat pump repair performed during extreme temperatures is likely to cost more than during moderate conditions or off-season.
• System Age: The older your heat pump, the more difficult it may be to find replacement parts. Older, outdated, or banned refrigerants are also more expensive to find.
• Maintenance: A well-maintained system usually costs less to repair than a poorly maintained one, which is more likely to require multiple repairs.
• Extent of the Damage: If one component is damaged, other parts may have damage related to the same cause, such as an electrical surge or lightning strike. A contractor may also recommend replacing multiple parts at once simply to avoid double-charging you for labor.

Heat pumps can last up to 20 years. However, if you need extensive repairs before then, you may consider replacing the system to save money over time. A new heat pump can cost $4,500 to $8,000 (more advanced geothermal models can cost $20,000 or more). Paying repeatedly for parts and labor can exceed installation costs, especially if your system needs a repair every few months.

We’ve encountered homeowners considering having their AC and furnace tuned up simultaneously. Fewer service calls can save money. However, the units should be serviced six months apart. A contractor can check for issues with both, as bi-annual maintenance enable them to conduct inspections and adjustments before and after their respective seasons (damage can happen during peak use, which can be fixed more easily and less expensively than waiting another year).

While they may share ductwork, wiring, and other components, each HVAC unit has its peak season. Two HVAC maintenance services a year let a technician check your AC or furnace before it’s in full use. They can also find and resolve problems with shared components used throughout the year.

However, scheduling maintenance too soon may not be beneficial. For example, a furnace maintenance check in warm weather can be less effective. Diagnostic tests could be inaccurate, so it’s best to wait until the weather is cooler but not cold enough to require heating. The same goes for your AC system. System tests and responses may not reflect its overall health if the ambient temperature is still cool.

An experienced technician follows a checklist when performing AC or furnace maintenance. Generally, the process involves these important tasks:

• Inspection: The contractor checks the system’s motors, fans, belts, and electrical connections. The outdoor unit is checked for leveling and grass, leaves, and other obstructions are cleared away at least two feet on all sides.
• Cleaning: Evaporator coils, fans, burners, and other components must be cleaned to ensure they operate properly. The technician takes the steps necessary to remove dirt and grime. They also check the condensate line for clogs and clear it if needed.
• Filter Replacement: Your HVAC filter should be changed at least every 90 days. However, a technician usually replaces it during maintenance to optimize performance and efficiency. They may also recommend a higher-efficiency air filter.
• Lubrication: The motor and other moving parts are lubricated to help them run smoothly and to reduce wear. An HVAC technician has the proper oil and knows what parts of the system need it.
• Calibration: The thermostat’s reading is checked against the actual air temperature, and the technician ensures it responds accordingly. Adjusting the thermostat can improve temperature control and energy efficiency.
• Refrigerant Check: A contractor can test refrigerant levels and pressure. They can recharge the system and check for leaks if the readings are lower than normal. If a leak is caught early, minor fixes can avoid a costly repair or system replacement.

Instead of providing moisture for just one room, a whole house system humidifies your entire home. A room humidifier may have just a one-gallon tank to draw moisture from. Whole home humidifiers are available as stand-alone devices, or pedestal style humidifiers, suited for up to 2,500 square foot homes, and HVAC inline systems. These are connected to ductwork near the furnace or air handler. Newer systems include fans that circulate moisture into ducts and activate automatically when the heat is turned on (a humidistat provides control).

Knowing the benefits can help you determine whether to buy a whole-house humidifier. The general advantages of installing such a system include:

• Humidity Control Is Automated: Air is naturally drier when you turn on the heat. You can set the humidistat to, for example, 40%. If your home’s envelope is properly sealed and insulated, indoor humidity will then always be at a comfortable level.
• Whole House Humidifiers Require Little Maintenance: If your humidifier is installed in line with your HVAC system, it typically doesn’t need much maintenance. The filter, or evaporator panel, will need to be changed once a year, while it also helps to wipe away any mineral scale. Swapping the filter takes just a couple of minutes. By contrast, portable whole-home systems must be cleaned out every two weeks and the basin will constantly need to be refilled with water.
• Systems Are Easy to Install: For a pedestal unit, installation simply requires placing it in a centralized area, filling the basin, and plugging in the device. Set the desired humidity level and it’s ready to go. Central humidifiers require a professional to install because they’re connected to a water line, your home electrical system, and ductwork.
• Improved Indoor Air Quality: In low humidity conditions, you may experience dry skin and exacerbated allergies. Damage to wood is possible, including furniture, structural components, and floors. The ideal indoor humidity level is 30% to 50%, according to the Mayo Clinic. Some research has suggested low humidity may make it easier for the flu virus to spread.