HVAC, Plumbing & Electrical in The Dalles, OR

While a furnace that won’t stop may signal a technical issue, setting the fan to “ON” at the thermostat may be best practice, depending on your furnace. Newer models are designed to stay on day and night.

Why should you run your HVAC fan continuously? The following are some of the hidden benefits.

One of the biggest benefits of HVAC fans is proper air circulation. Heated and cooled air doesn’t always circulate properly because heat rises and pushes cold air to your house’s lower areas while making upper floors and attics very warm. Running the fan evens out temperatures throughout all spaces in your home, circulating warm and cool air for more even — and faster — residential heating and cooling.

The Dalles, Portland, and the Tualatin area are famous for their rainy, temperate climate. Mold and mildew can flourish in these conditions without good airflow. Better air circulation greatly reduces the chances of these contaminants growing in the walls, cracks, and crevices of your home.

With new HVAC systems, keeping the fan on actually improves energy efficiency. HVAC fan settings in newer models make automatic adjustments, keeping the temperature in your home even, which, in turn, reduces the amount of time your furnace or air conditioner needs to stay on to maintain your ideal temperature.

Energy Star rated furnaces and air conditioners are more likely to save you money on your energy bills while running 24/7, and they reduce greenhouse gas emissions and the demand for importing energy.

Better air circulation in your home benefits people with allergies, pets, and respiratory conditions because the air in your house makes more passes through the system’s filters, catching any allergens, bacteria, viruses, pollen, mold spores, dust, and other airborne particles.

You might have to change the filters more often if you run the HVAC system constantly, but you will also enjoy higher-quality indoor air.

Contrary to popular belief, keeping your HVAC fan on may extend its service life, provided the equipment was properly installed and your ductwork is correctly sized. Set to off, a newer, energy-efficient HVAC system goes through more wear and requires more maintenance than if the fan is set to the “on” position.

Your HVAC system’s only job is to keep you comfortable. With the fan set to the “on” position, your home’s interior will have consistently fresh, conditioned air at your desired temperature without you having to monitor the thermostat or manually adjust the temperature.

You’ll also get a more even temperature distribution, especially if your house has more than one floor. In the hot Oregon summers, your entire space will stay cool. In the chilly winters, you won’t have to worry about cold spots in the house.

There are a few reasons you should not keep your HVAC fan running continuously. For example, if your ductwork is in the attic, the summer heat can make running the fan impractical. Temperatures well above 100°F can end up blowing down into your main living space. It also won’t help if your ductwork is leaking. Make sure to have your ducts tested and sealed occasionally so your HVAC system is as efficient as it’s designed to be.

Another consideration is the age of your HVAC system. If you’re concerned about constant fan use and energy consumption, it could be a good idea to install a more efficient motor. Older furnaces tend to use permanent split capacitor (PSC) type motors. However, a new, more efficient electronically commutated motor (ECM) can cut energy use despite running more often.

While each HVAC system is built differently, setting your fan to run continuously through the thermostat should be fairly easy. The “on” setting keeps the fan running even after the air reaches your desired temperature. Select this setting rather than the “automatic” setting, and the system will actively push the already-conditioned air around in your house 24/7, keeping it evenly heated or cooled with clean, filtered air year-round.

If you’re unsure how to change your HVAC system’s fan settings and live in Portland, the Dalles, Troutdale, Lake Oswego, Tigard, Rivergrove, Milwaukie, or the surrounding area, reach out to Sky today. A qualified technician will inspect your system to ensure it’s ready to be set to “on” and then show you how to do it.

You deserve to have an HVAC system that works its best year-round. If your heating and cooling isn’t keeping you comfortable, call Sky Heating, AC, Plumbing, and Electrical today. An experienced local HVAC technician will assess the issue and help you improve your system.

We’re your local home service center, offering a wide range of HVAC services, including AC, furnace, and ductwork inspections, installations, replacement, maintenance, and more. We employ the expertise, tools, and equipment to get the job done right to make sure your system offers the comfort, efficiency, and air quality you need. We care about providing a quality experience to each of our clients and will do what it takes to make sure you’re happy with the work we do.If you’re considering changing how you run your HVAC system, contact our team today to schedule a consultation appointment. Count on our expert technicians to provide trustworthy advice. Schedule service using our easy online form, or call us directly at (503) 563-2698.

Your home electrical system normally operates at 120 volts. However, alternating current fluctuates and can normally peak at up to 169 volts. Anything higher than that is considered a surge. Spikes in AC power can happen anywhere, anytime.

Power surges may last for as little as a millionth of a second but be strong enough to cause an arc inside an electrical device. This can overheat components such as circuit boards. Smaller surges can occur just by turning on appliances. The damage adds up gradually until an electrical device suddenly stops working.

There are many causes of power surges, such as the following:

• Lightning Strikes: Lightning can trigger the most powerful electrical surges, which cause instantaneous damage and severe injuries to anyone nearby.
• Damaged Power Line: If a power line is blown over in a storm or knocked down in an impact, a break in transmission cables can cause a power surge in your home. A buildup of snow and ice can also cause electricity levels to fluctuate.
• Faulty Wiring: A power surge can be caused by old, frayed, cracked, or improperly installed wiring. Surges also occur if rodents chew through wiring insulation.
• Appliances: Some appliances, like air conditioners and refrigerators, normally turn on and off. This causes momentary increases in demand that cause electrical fluctuations.
• High Power Demand: Using a hairdryer or other high-power appliance can increase voltages to unsafe levels. Higher demand on the power supply, such as on a hot day when more ACs are running, can cause brownouts or blackouts that trigger voltage dips and spikes.

You can’t stop every voltage spike. Power outages on the electrical grid, surges when power is restored, and lightning strikes are out of your control. However, you can protect your home and minimize the risk with the following preventative measures:

• Unplug Electronics During a Storm
• Turn Off Everything During an Outage
• Install Energy-Efficient Appliances
• Plug Appliances Into Dedicated Outlets
• Use Surge Protectors with Larger Electronic Devices/span>
• Install a Whole-Home Surge Protection System
• Schedule a Home Wiring Inspection

You can’t stop every voltage spike. Power outages on the electrical grid, surges when power is restored, and lightning strikes are out of your control. However, you can protect your home and minimize the risk with the following preventative measures:

If a strong storm is approaching, disconnect electrical devices from the power supply to protect them from surges. This is the best way to prevent damage to televisions, computers, and large appliances. Even if lightning doesn’t strike close to your home, disruptions in electricity from the power grid can damage anything that’s still connected.

After a storm, you should do the following to prevent additional damage:

• Reset any electrical devices that aren’t working.
• Check devices and outlets for signs of damage, such as burn marks.
• Inspect your HVAC unit for evidence of damage.

A power surge is almost inevitable as the utility company restores power. It may seem surprising that all the lights are out one second, and the next, your home is jolted by high-voltage electricity. One reason is everything turns back on at once. The more electronics unplugged or turned off, the less the demand as the initial surge of electricity reaches your home. Therefore, shut off all electrical devices and appliances during a blackout, including your air conditioner.

Newer appliances are often advertised as high-efficiency. Manufacturers and dealers love to promote the idea that an expensive, high-end unit will lower your electricity bills. Modern air conditioners, refrigerators, and washer-dryers are designed to meet new efficiency standards, so they draw less electricity. This means they’re also more resistant to power surges, so you can save on both energy and frequent repairs.

How you manage your outlets can prevent power surge damage. Plugging too many devices into one outlet can cause an overload. Distributing the load can prevent a surge in the first place. Large appliances such as refrigerators and HVAC units should not share an outlet with other devices.

The safest solution is to have an electrician install a dedicated circuit and breaker for each large appliance. This avoids exceeding each circuit’s rated capacity. It can also prevent voltage fluctuations due to overheated lines.

A surge protector is effective at preventing damage from internal voltage spikes. Although not designed to handle the intensity of a lightning strike, it can protect an expensive appliance or electronic system from a power surge, and possibly save you thousands of dollars in replacing a home entertainment system or an HVAC unit.

Small plug-in surge protectors protect only one device. A whole-home surge protector is a heavy-duty system that protects every device and circuit from external surges. The system is connected to your main electrical panel. Providing a barrier between the power grid and your home electrical system, it blocks any surge from reaching outlets, appliances, and electronics within your house, no matter where they are.

A heat pump can slow down, provide decreased temperature control, or become less efficient for many reasons. A faulty part is often the cause. However, every repair has a different set of circumstances. Your local heat pump repair contractor calculates the cost of service based on the following factors:

• Type of Heat Pump
• Cost vs. Heat Pump Part Needed
• Other Heat Pump Repair Cost Variables
• Cost of Heat Pump Repair vs. Replacement
• Can I Save Money on Heat Pump Repair?

Some heat pumps have a more conventional design, while others employ newer technologies. Here are the most common types and their typical repair costs:

• Traditional Air Source Heat Pumps ($200 to $1,600): Air source units are the most common heat pumps installed in U.S. homes. They are best suited for locations where temperature extremes are rare. A backup heat source is required in colder climates.
• Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pumps ($100 to $1,500): These consist of outdoor condenser/compressor units and indoor air handlers. Installing them costs more than air-source units but avoids the cost of installing ductwork.
• Geothermal Heat Pumps ($200 to $2,000): Installing geothermal systems involves placing underground pipework, which is expensive, but the system can last 20+ years. Despite their many advantages, geothermal heat pumps are costly to fix due to access challenges.
• Water Source Heat Pumps ($200 to $1,800): Water source systems extract and release heat from pipes placed in a lake, pond, or well. Repair costs vary based on the nature and accessibility of parts, while installation costs are higher than those of other heat pump types.

Repairing a heat pump often requires replacing one or more parts. Generally, the more components that need to be replaced, the higher the heat pump repair cost. Expenses vary depending on the type of part, the brand, and the project’s complexity.

The cost of repairs can also be affected by the type of problem. For example, if the heat pump won’t turn on, a thermostat, breaker, or fan switch issue may need to be resolved. Repairs can cost $150 to $400, depending on how many components are needed. Fixing a heat pump that won’t defrost can cost under $100 or as much as $650; the causes range from a defective timer to a damaged reversing valve.

Here’s a look at the costs of some other common heat pump replacement parts:

• Thermostat: A thermostat repair averages $100 to $300. Unless properly setting the thermostat resolves the issue, it may have a wiring or mechanical issue. Wiring repairs can cost up to $200 while a new thermostat can cost $110 to $500 to install depending on the type you choose.
• Obstructions or Blockages: Clearing a blockage or obstruction on the exterior of the unit is relatively affordable at an average cost of $75 to $200.
• Capacitor: Replacing a faulty capacitor is simple but can resolve various performance issues. A new part costs around $150 to $250.
• Line Drier: This part helps clean and remove moisture from the refrigerant. If it fails, it costs $150 to $300 to replace.
• Refrigerant: Your heat pump system relies on refrigerant to absorb, transport, and release heat. Recharging the refrigerant can cost $100 to $350, plus the expense of repairing leaky coils.
• Condenser Coil: A damaged condenser coil can cost $650 to $1,500 to replace. Otherwise, the refrigerant will continue to leak, causing performance issues and additional system damage.
• Condenser Fan Motor: The motor keeps the fan moving at the appropriate speed to ensure proper airflow. If it breaks, you’ll spend from $250 to $650 to replace it.
• Condenser Fan Blade: A broken fan blade can restrict airflow and lead to more damage. Replacing it costs $150 to $400 but immediately restores performance.
• Defrost Control Board: Your heat pump’s defrost system prevents damage if ice forms inside it. If the defrost controller fails, it costs $200 to $650 to replace.
• Compressor: Compressor replacement is perhaps the most expensive heat pump repair. It can cost up to $3,500 and may justify replacing the entire system.
• Ductwork Repairs: A ducted heat pump, reduced airflow, strange noises, condensation caused by air leaks, poor connections, or improperly sized ducts can affect heating and cooling performance. Ductwork repairs can range from a couple of hundred dollars to as much as $2,000.

How expensive heat pump repair is can depend on a range of factors other than the type of unit and parts needed. Costs can be impacted by the following:

• Labor: An HVAC contractor typically charges anywhere from $50 to $150 per hour to service a heat pump. A minimum trip fee, if the company charges one, may equal an hour or two of labor. For complex jobs, labor costs can add up to $1,500 or more.
• Unit Size: Larger, more complex heat pump systems cost more to fix. Their parts also tend to be more expensive.
• System Brand: The higher the quality of the brand, the more expensive parts are to produce and replace.
• Unit Location: Fixing a heat pump unit installed in a utility closet is easier and cheaper to repair than one in a hard-to-access location such as a crawl space.
• Season: A heat pump repair performed during extreme temperatures is likely to cost more than during moderate conditions or off-season.
• System Age: The older your heat pump, the more difficult it may be to find replacement parts. Older, outdated, or banned refrigerants are also more expensive to find.
• Maintenance: A well-maintained system usually costs less to repair than a poorly maintained one, which is more likely to require multiple repairs.
• Extent of the Damage: If one component is damaged, other parts may have damage related to the same cause, such as an electrical surge or lightning strike. A contractor may also recommend replacing multiple parts at once simply to avoid double-charging you for labor.

Heat pumps can last up to 20 years. However, if you need extensive repairs before then, you may consider replacing the system to save money over time. A new heat pump can cost $4,500 to $8,000 (more advanced geothermal models can cost $20,000 or more). Paying repeatedly for parts and labor can exceed installation costs, especially if your system needs a repair every few months.

You might need an electrical panel upgrade if the circuit breakers trip frequently, the panel emits a burning smell, or it looks worn, rusted, or damaged. A common reason to replace the panel is to boost capacity and add amperage to support an increased load. The project also often includes replacing outdated or worn-out wiring, so it has many benefits.

In general, here’s what electrical panel replacement looks like:

A trench inspector determines the project requirements and obtains approval before digging a trench, which will contain the underground feeder conduit. The trench is then re-inspected and backfilled. Sidewalk, street, or driveway repairs are completed as necessary.

Once the installation is complete, repairs to stucco/siding, waterproofing, and painting are completed. A final inspection is then scheduled to ensure your electrical panel upgrade complies with NEC standards.

• Determine the Right Panel Size: An electrical panel’s capacity is measured in amperes. Homeowners often choose a 200-amp panel, which allows you to add a couple of appliances and supports an electric vehicle charger. Larger options include 300-amp and 400-amp electrical panels. To determine the right size, add up the total power requirements of all the lights, appliances, and devices in your home.
• Request a Service Change: Contact your utility company to request a change to your existing services, which requires filling out paperwork. Depending on your utility company, you can request the work order online.
• Wait for a Response: The length of the waiting period depends on the utility company’s availability. Your project is assigned to a planner who visits your home, inspects the area, and creates a design for the new installation. Next, they submit a work order that details the panel location, conduit size, meter height, clearances, and any trenching requirements if underground service is needed.
• Apply for a Permit: You need a city permit for electrical panel replacement. Don’t listen to subpar electrical contractors who quote a lower price and say pulling a permit isn’t necessary. Most municipalities offer a relatively easy process to apply for and get approved for a permit. You cannot proceed with an electrical panel upgrade until this step is complete.
• Meet with a Trench Inspector (For Underground Service): Many electrical installations involve overhead electrical service, which is essentially power lines running to a conduit near the electrical panel. If you see green transformers instead, you likely have underground electrical service.
• Schedule a Disconnect/Reconnect: Whether you have overhead or underground service, you’ll need to schedule an electrical disconnect/reconnect. It’s the date the old panel will be removed and the new unit installed. A service coordinator from your utility company will help schedule this date. The company will disconnect the power on the day of your electrical panel upgrade.
• Grounding/Bonding System Installation: In compliance with the National Electric Code (NEC), two ground rods, a cold water pipe, and an electrical panel connection are installed. A solid, properly sized ground wire connects both ground rods and the other components.
• Panel Removal/Installation: The power is disconnected at the origin point and the old panel is removed. A new riser and weather head are installed for overhead electrical service. Electrical panel replacement proceeds and then a city inspector evaluates the site and notifies the utility company if it passes inspection. Power will then be restored.

Only if you have years of training and experience and an electrician’s license can you replace an electrical panel. It’s one of the most challenging electrical jobs. The reasons you need a professional include:

• Safety: It can be dangerous to work with electricity. One wrong move or a hidden problem can result in a fire, shock, or electrocution. Even electricians often get injured or worse by direct or indirect contact with live electrical equipment.
• Costs: You could make mistakes that cost you more than calling a professional in the first place. Plus, you’d need to purchase/rent expensive equipment you may never use again.
• Permits: Permitting requirements make do-it-yourself projects out of the question. You must have the correct paperwork and authorizations; otherwise, you could face a hefty fine and have to start the job all over again.
• Time: While you might wait for planners, inspectors, and approvals, electrical panel replacement should take about four to eight hours. Depending on the panel installed, the job can be completed in a day. Your electrical contractor will provide a timeline for your project before starting.
• Insurance: Professional electricians are insured. Liability coverage provides protection should an accident occur while the technician is working. Their insurance policy should also include coverage for repairing property damage if necessary.